Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
